
Chevron beads - Courtesy of Mike Albanese
Note:
I wrote this article and the others on this site because I
wanted to know about a particular subject. I am not, nor do
I claim to be, an authority any anything...only have an
inquisitive curiosity. Some so-called
"authorities" have complained about the chevron
beads in the above pictures. The chevrons in the first
picture were bought in Germany after World War II, but most
of the other beads in the pictures appear to be much
older......as far as I know, there is no way to accurately
determine the age of glass beads, or when and how they were
used. Despite the large numbers of beads found in some
archeological sites, there is little historical information
available on the majority of the beads found.
Prior to
European contact, beads in North America were made from
gold, silver, jade, bone, the blue-green turquoise, and hand
polished shell beads. Anasazi,
Fremont, and other Southwestern Pueblo people traded
turquoise throughout the Southwest and into Mesoamerica.
Indians from the Pacific coast traded sea shells to the
Southwest Indians; Indians from the Atlantic coast and the
gulf of Mexico traded beads to the Mound Builders of the
Mississippi River valleys.
October
12, 1492, Columbus recorded in his logbook the natives of
San Salvador Island were given red caps and glass beads.
This is the earliest written record of glass beads in the
Americas. The Spanish explorer Hernando Cortéz landed on
the coast of Mexico in the spring of 1519. His ships carried
glass beads along with other European trade goods. The
Spanish explorers Narváez in 1527 and De Soto in 1539
carried glass beads for trade with the native inhabitants of
Florida. In 1622, a glass factory was built near Jamestown,
Virginia. Less than a year later, a raiding party of Indians
burned the factory. Very few of the beads made in the
Jamestown factory are believed to exist today.
Bead
prices varied with location, demand, and how bad Indians
wanted a particular bead. When trading for beaver pelts, the
Hudson's Bay Company used a standard value based on made
beaver...a made beaver was stretched, dried, and ready for
shipment. Records from early trading posts show a made
beaver was worth: six Hudson's Bay beads; three light blue
Padre (Crow) beads; two larger transparent blue beads.
Little
historical information is available on the majority of trade
beads discovered in archeological sites. The Hudson's Bay
Company has celebrated over three hundred years in North
America, but the records on types and descriptions of trade
beads, along with invoices, and sources of supply have not
survived in the Hudson's Bay archives. Today the company's
only examples of the Hudson's Bay beads are in the Indian
Arts and Crafts section of their museums.
My thanks
to Joan K. Murray, Corporate Historian, HBC Heritage
Services for updated information on Hudson's Bay seed beads.
In 1987, the Hudson’s Bay Company sold its Northern Stores
Division to the North West Company. The successor to the
Hudson's Bay Company in Northern Canada still sells beads to
Native Americans. The new North West Company stocks over
forty colors of seed beads.
Early
Spanish Conquistadors and Priests traveled from the Florida
Keys to California. In 1741, the Russians reached the coast
of Alaska and from there down the western coast of North
America. A North West Company trader, Alexander Mackenzie,
crossed Canada to the Pacific Ocean in 1793. All of these
explorers, as well as David Thompson and the Lewis and Clark
Expedition, carried glass beads for presents and as a medium
of exchange in dealing with the American Indians.
FUR
TRADE BEADS
Padre
beads are wound, opaque, light blue glass beads from China.
These beads come in three sizes: jumbo (Dogons) 5/8's to 3/4
inch in diameter, mid-sized (Crow beads) 3/8's inch in
diameter, and small Pony beads 3/16's inch diameter. Through
Spanish and Russian traders, Padre beads spread rapidly into
the Southwest and Northwest. In 1778, English explorer,
Captain James Cook made several references to the effect it
was difficult to obtain supplies and furs from the Pacific
coast Indians without this particular blue bead. Captain
Lewis had this to say about Padre beads and the Indians
tribes along the Columbia River…only the blue and white
beads were acceptable, the most desired, are the common
cheap, blue beads called "Chief Beads"…. Padre
beads were made in a variety of colors, but blue and white
were the most sought after by the Northwest Indians.
Another
trade bead was the Vasaline, or Cave Agate. These beads
range in a variety of colors. This pressed bead was faceted
and transparent. On the earliest Vasaline beads, the hole
through the bead is larger on one end; the hole was made
with a hot pointed rod. Vasaline beads were widely traded
until the mid-1800. After the mid-eighteen hundreds, Indians
women requested the smaller seed beads.
Russians
had little to do with the Russian Blue beads. Produced in
Bohemia, the Russian Blue bead did not appear in Alaska
until just before Americans bought Alaska (1867). Russians
traders acquired these beads from the American and English
traders in exchange for furs. The Russian Blue beads are
shaped into six-, seven-, or eight-sided tube before being
drawn. After the tubes are cut to bead size, the ends of the
ridge between the adjacent sides are ground off. The result
is a bead with eighteen, twenty-one, or twenty-four facets.
Some deviations resulted in more or less facets.
The
Lewis and Clark Expedition carried thirty-three pounds of
small trade beads. There is no evidence they carried the
bead pictured to the right, but these beads are known as
Lewis and Clark beads. There are several entries in the
various journals kept by the Expedition members about how
hard it was to trade for food with any of the beads they
carried, except the plain blue and white ones.
In
the mid-1800’s, the "Cornaline d'Aleppo" beads
became known as the Hudson's Bay bead. This bead has two
distinct colors of glass, one color over the other. The
outer layer was red and the inner layer a translucent green.
The more recent version of the Hudson's Bay bead has a
yellow or white center of opaque glass with the outside
having a translucent or opaque red glass. This later version
can be found in tubular, ovate, and spherical shapes and in
a wide range of sizes.
The
last known bead made for Native American trade was the
Hubbell bead. This bead was supposedly made for Lorenzo
Hubbell owner of the Hubbell Trading Post in Gavado,
Arizona. First made in Czechoslovakia between 1915 and 1920,
this bead is still being made today. The Hubbell bead came
in a variety of sizes, shapes, and shades to imitate a
semi-precious stone...Turquoise. Records at the Hubble
trading post do not support any connection with this bead.
This
does not imply turquoise was not widely used as an Indian
trade item. Southwest turquoise has been found in the Plains
area, along the Pacific Coast, and as far south as Meso-America.
The Southwest Indians are still making turquoise jewelry.
SEED
BEADS:
Seed
beads like those used on this deer skin bag reached the
plains Indians in the mid-1840s.

Bear Paw Bag - Jeannie Harrison
The
primary beads used by Indian women for decoration were the
seed, Pony, and Crow beads. Made of drawn glass: the seed
beads were under 2.0 mm; Pony, or pound beads, were between
2 and 4 mm; Crow bead were 4 to 10 mm in diameter. The
larger Crow and Pony beads were carried by Lewis and Clark
and other early explorers. Crow and Pony beads were hung
from, or attached to clothing and horse gear. There is no
evidence of seed beads being taken to the Mountain Man
Rendezvous during the period 1825 to 1840.
Prior to
the introduction of seed beads, porcupine quillwork was used
in decoration by the Plains Indian women. Developed by the
North American Plains Indians, quillwork followed the
introduction of horses. After acquiring horses, Plains
Indian did not have to range over larger territories in
search of game. Being able to spend more time in one place
allowed women time to quill. Each tribe had its own patterns
and traditions associated with the quill work.

This
strip of seed beads belonged to Carrie Bagley. Her daughters
Helen Yeaman and Betty Frome gave it to me.

This
string of jumbo Padre "Chief" Beads was a gift
from Julie Birrer of Jackson Wyoming. The beads original
came from the Nez Perce in the late 1700s. The Nez Perce
referred to these beads as Sky-Blue beads.

Indian Horse Bandolier
This
thirty-five inch bandolier went around a horse's neck. While
on his way to the Columbia River and Fort Astoria in 1811,
Wilson Price Hunt mentioned a similar decoration on a
Cheyenne Indian horse's neck. This pre-1885 Crow bandolier
has on it: Crow beads, vasaline beads, French brass beads,
white hearts, Mescal seeds, sea shells, Abalone shells,
Dentalium shells, Dutch dogans, watermelon beads, hawk
bells, thimbles, buttons, rifle shell casing, bullets, deer
dew claws, and a pieces of an American flag.
WAMPUM:
Native
Americans along the eastern coast had their own beads. These
beads were made from the "quahog" or hard-shell
clam. The hard-clam furnished two colors of Wampum—white
and purple. Only a small portion of the shell could be used
to make the purple bead, resulting in its value being twice
the value of the white bead.
With the
introduction of metal tools to drill and work the clamshell,
the beads became more uniform, about one-fourth inch in
length and one-eighth inch in diameter. The Dutch and
English colonists established factories to speed up the
production of Wampum, thus becoming one of the earliest
industries in America. John Campbell and his descendants in
New Jersey made the bulk of wampum beads traded in this
country. Quahog-shells were also sent to Europe to be made
into Wampum and then returned to the colonies.
Wampum
beads were widely used for trade, but were not considered a
form of money. These beads were used for personal
decoration, and when arranged on a string in a particular
color pattern to convey messages between various tribes.
Wampum woven belts were often used in ratifying treaties.
The arrangement of colors becomes the treaty document. There
are records of court judgments and tuition in some of the
early American colleges as being payable in Wampum. Beads of
the quahog shell remained a medium of trade exchange until
1792, when the United States government established coinage
laws bringing into use the first silver dollars and ten
dollar gold pieces. Glass beads eventually replaced Wampum
as a means of ornamentation.
MANHATTAN
BEADS:
Many
history books claim the Dutch bought Manhattan for
twenty-four dollars worth of trade beads. This story first
appeared in Martha Lamb's book on New York history in 1877,
which was two hundred and fifty years after the purchase.
Since her book was published, most historians have quoted
it. Manhattan was purchased with trade goods, but there is
no evidence trade beads were more than a small part of the
exchanged items. - Peter Francis, Jr. Bead Research Center.
The
Indian Trade Bead article was written by O. Ned Eddins of
Afton, Wyoming. Permission is given for material from this
site to be used for research papers.

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